by Adam Chase | Jun 4, 2015
Spain continues to soar in the wine world. The country now claims to be the largest wine producer in the world, and the styles and quality of wines from Spain continue to grow. Modern viticulture and winemaking techniques are changing sleepy small ancient regions into modern superstars.
Two producers I recently tasted show the uniqueness, quality and value of Spanish wine. Txomin Etxaniz is a producer I return to time and again, never to be disappointed. Gotim Bru by Castell del Remei is a red wine that at delivers huge taste at an under $15 price. Both of these wines come from two of Spain’s smallest regions and show modern viticulture at its best.
Txomin Etxaniz is from the smallest DO in Spain, Getariako Txakolina. This tiny region in Spain’s Basque region on the northern Atlantic coast plants the indigenous vines Hondarrabi Zuri (white) and Handarrabi Beltza (red).
Txomin Etxaniz has been making wines since 1649. Their vineyards are on chalky terraced soils that overlook the Atlantic. The winery creates white and rosé wines that are light, yet full of character. Txomin Etxaniz white is a perfect seafood wine – which dominates the cuisine of the area. It is crisp and minerally, but with definite notes of citrus – lemon and a hint lime – as well as green apple and grassy notes.
Txomin Etxaniz rosé is bright and packed with light red fruit flavor – cherry, raspberry and plum. It too has the chalky crisp mineral notes. The wine rivals some of the best rosés of the Rhone valley and Provence and offers the taste of summer in a glass.
Gotim Bru is a wine my brother introduced me too as one of the best value wines he has ever tasted. This wine comes from the DO Costers del Segre in Catalonia. The producer dates to 1780 and was started by Bordeaux families who introduced Cabernet Sauvignon to the region.
Gotim Bru is a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The sunlight and granite soils of the region mark the wine with a dense fruit quality – fresh and dried cherry, strawberry and current notes. Carefully utilized French and American oak add flavors of chocolate, toffee and smoke to the wine. Gotim Bru just can’t be beat for its layered quality, and Spanish elegance.
by Adam Chase | Jun 4, 2015
I’m always looking for something new to serve at a summer party. There is only so much Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc I can take. This 4th of July I thought why not Gavi? This Italian white wine is light and has the crispness, and lemony, slightly grassy flavors that go so well with summer foods.
The wine worked! People initially thought Gavi was a brand of Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. When they realized it was actually a unique wine from an Italian region in Piedmont made from the Cortese grape they were pleasantly surprised. This revelation was a conversation starter – trips to Italy, Italian food and, more importantly to me, how many people are looking for something new to drink.
A disclaimer: if you are looking for an under $10 wine, Gavi will not be it. But, if you are willing to spend a little more than this is a wine worth trying. Most Gavis start at $10 and can go as high as $25. Three I have recently tried are described
Batasiolo Gavi DOCG is a wine that defines balance. Ripe Meyer lemon and lively acidity sit together on a light, yet slightly creamy body. The wine is easy to sip and in particular compliments cold seafood especially well.
Cristina Ascheri Gavi DOCG has a freshness and elegance that is a hallmark of all of Ascheri’s wines. This Gavi is subtle and lingers with its lemon, herb and mineral flavors over a long finish. It is great with creamy cheeses and fish.
Araldica La Luciana Gavi DOCG also has that strong mineral backbone along with a slightly lemon lime flavor and tartness. This is another versatile wine that pairs well with almost any food.
by Adam Chase | Jun 3, 2015
More and more bars, pubs and restaurants are focusing on their cocktail lists with the result that a customer has a huge range of options from which to choose. I like the trend of many smaller restaurants specializing in one particular type of spirit – Bourbon, Scotch, Rum and Tequila. It allows us to try different brands without committing to an entire bottle.
Some of my favorite recent cocktails have been at San Francisco’s Range and Hard Water, and at Boston’s Ribelle and Number 9 Park. The cocktail lists at these restaurants are creative and really show the great palate and skill of each bar’s mixologist.
At Range “The Remedy” is a great way to start an evening. This layered, spicy cocktail is based on Diplomatico Rum; Venezuelan rum that is often made in pot stills and aged in oak to induce more rich flavors. The rum is enhanced by combining it with ginger, sugar, lime, and, to give it a bit of a kick, chili. The key to this drink’s success is that it combines a refreshing component with a bit of heat on the finish. The result is a sensation of flavors that evolve on palate and makes you actually think about what you are tasting. Well done!
Hard Water focuses on Bourbon and offers flights for customers so that you can actually try several styles of this American whiskey in one sitting. As for cocktails, I’d recommend starting with “The Presbyterian.” This is a mix of 101 Wild Turkey Bourbon with ginger, lemon and soda. It is light, crisp and at the same time has real depth from the Bourbon and ginger mix. Adding the lemon here surprisingly gives this cocktail an extra bit of dimension that sets it apart from just being a simple mixed drink.
At Ribelle in Brookline, Massachusetts Hustle & Cuss is a cocktail that combines Amontillado Sherry, Browns Bourbon, a shot of espresso – called Ristretto – and honey shrub syrup. This may sound like a list of things that you might never combine, but it really works and shows incredible craft and daring. The Amontillado has a nutty slightly citrus flavor that is and enhanced by the dried fruit caramel notes of the Browns. The ristertto adds depth and richness, while the honey shrub keeps everything from becoming bitter. Definitely this is a drink to try!
Number 9 Park is one of Boston’s top restaurants. Wine director Cat Silirie is one of the best in the business and the list is fantastic. But the cocktail list here, managed by Bar Director Ted Kilpatrick, is what I love. There are actually two lists: one that is at the bar, the other that you need to ask for.
Every cocktail at No 9 Park shows creativity and craft, but the one that will stop you cold is “La Vie du Canard.” This is a drink made with Foie Gras and Bourbon. Yes, you read correctly, Foie Gras. It may not sound appetizing and certainly there is real debate about using this duck liver, given the way the birds are treated, but surprisingly it really works here. The drink is rich, but the addition of the Italian aperitif, Cocchi Americano and bitters such as Cynar make it lively and slightly spicy. This is a drink you sip slowly and think about long after the glass is empty.
